We're off for a very big adventure.....hoping we can share some of it with you through our pictures and diaries....
Muheza, Tanzania
Monday, 31 December 2018
Happy New Year
The talk of New Year Resolutions released a torrent of pent up emotion from our middle daughter who has been battling homesickness since our arrival. Where her Mummy & Daddy only produced more tears and stored fears, finally her older sister has broken into the overwhelming feelings.... we have tiptoed out to leave R serenading with lullabies on her ukulele.
So emotionally exhausted we bid farewell to the year that has set us off on this adventure. This time last year, our plan was a mere seed of an idea. Has it been worth it, yes, I think, despite these upsets.....at least I hope she won't be having therapy for it in years to come. Those of you who know the hours of angst I put into parenting will be reassured that these upsets are no different from home, just directed in a different way. Perhaps surprisingly, PP is proving easier here.
What has New Years Eve surmounted to today? A pop into the hospital, a check at the post office for mail (none), a request for more electricity, the unpacking from our Christmas holiday, the anticipation of more water supplies (disappointingly none, following from last weeks full tank), the usual round of meal preparations, finding of pants, tidying of stuff, mediation of bickering, playing of games.....life. We have covered many topics in our usual rounds of discussions....civil war, the meaning of life, how do bats give birth (they have to catch their babies before they fall to the ground), why are we here in Muheza, where to go at the weekend....
Which leaves me mulling at the end of the day, at the end of the year on the meaning of life. Many people have taught me many things, and I know I'll still be figuring it out on the last day of my life. My conclusions so far: we are too egotistical to think we have any meaning; the meaning can be whatever you choose it to be; life is precious, short and until you accept what you have you will forever be searching for what you have not; choose love; share this planet wisely; treat others as you wish to be treated yourself; surround yourself with people who hold the mirror up and help you be the best of you. So thank you to all you wonderful people who have made me who I am, and continue to tirelessly support, listen, laugh and share so much love. 2019 brings the remainder of my 40th year...may the adventure continue....
Sunday, 30 December 2018
Saturday, 29 December 2018
Home sweet home...well almost
M's sense of caution was overridden by all our pleas for 'just a little bit longer'.....and it nearly undid us. We got a bit lost leaving our hotel, bemused a few villages by driving through them twice, had a long wait for the car ferry to cross the Pangani river and then just when I thought I'd pulled it off (being only 5km south of Muheza as the sun was about to set) fate stepped in to say 'I told you so'. FLAT TYRE. Actually turned out to be a great experience of Tanzanian generosity and kindness, fortunately being on the edge of a village and with a multitude of motorcycles, when we discovered that although we had a spare tyre, no appropriate jack for the beast of a vehicle we were in.
Crowds began to gather, help summoned, and before we knew it we had 2 good jacks and extra muscles busy helping M under the car. In a surprisingly short period of time we waved goodbye to the giggling hordes of children hiding behind their mother's skirts, the group of eager young men who had rushed to our aid, and whom we think was the village chief, resplendent in white wellies (although he may have been an off duty police officer - hard to know).
We return home richer in friendships, with a promise to visit Arusha to stay with the lovely French/English/Danish family, and an offer to use a magnificent beach house from another expat family anytime we like.
The end of 2018 is drawing in, our time here is accelerating, we may well rapidly run out of weekends to fit in all the things we'd still like to do, and hopefully that will get us through the hotter, harder weekdays.
I often find I have a running commentary in my head of all the moments/experiences/thoughts I would like to jot down but rarely manage to commit them to 'paper' by the time parental duties are done. So a few snapshots inside my head:
Crunching sand underfoot, star splattered sky overhead, children clad only in swimmers as we walk back along the beach from a neighbouring lodge, returning from supper. Trying ever so hard to be brave in the knowledge that the beach is swarming with crabs all making their way to the sea for their night hunt. A mistake to turn on the torch to see there is more crab than sand....
Juicy, dripping mangoes...yup still love them. My parents always said the only way to eat a good mango is sitting in the bath. Shame we don't have a bath...instead we just fight over who gets to suck the flesh off the stone.
Sitting on the hard wooden benches on the car ferry crossing the Pangani river. We have been recommended to go on a river trip to see crocodiles so the girls are nervous at the open sides. All passengers have to get out of their vehicles for the crossing, so we sit debating our actions if a croc decides to jump on board. I mistakenly bring up some of the local history, as Pangani was slave port, though smaller than the slaving centre of Bagamayo further south. It is said that one of the main town buildings had a live slave buried at each corner when the foundations were lain, in the belief that it strengthen the building. Horrifying.
There, that'll do....I shall to a photo catch up tomorrow....and introduce you to our motorbike/bicycle competition; what's the most/largest thing we have seen strapped to the back of them.
Wednesday, 26 December 2018
It's a hard life....
Completely indulgent and a complete contrast to life in Muheza....but we are having a heavenly Christmas break. A fascinating mix of other families are staying in this lovely lodge south of Pangani. The girls are thick as thieves with new buddies, and it's no bad thing for them all to have some time apart with other people. R is currently hanging out in the beachside bar playing monopoly with a new bosom buddy (it's 8pm here) and they've all been roaming freely. There's a South African family of teens, a Belgium family from Dubai, an English family on Safari & Beach holiday and a French/English family who live in Tanzania. The last have an 11 & 7 yr old girl, so we are happily sharing meals and are trying out a small sailing dhow with them tomorrow. Fascinating to have insights into all these different multinational lives going on around the world. I can easily see how appealing having a paid job with the ability to have a house with air-con, international school and a car etc could be. Not sure our children would necessarily agree, particularly L who has calculated that we have 103 days left! We had a magical Christmas dinner of Lobster under the stars with the scent of cinnamon candles and the local choir singing. Tonight we contrasted by dining at the nearby village 'restaurant' beach shack with fish and chips at a fraction of the cost....although B did then ask as we strolled back amongst the scuttling crabs as to when supper was going to be. All so relaxed....I think this is our first 2 week holiday as a family and a very good thing to. M has a lot lined up surgery wise when we get back, there are 10 more days of holiday until school starts. Some negotiation to be done on B's home tutor and then we shall see how the new term goes for a more regular work for me....
Monday, 24 December 2018
Father Christmas found us...
Much anxiety has been relieved this morning on finding our African stockings had been filled. Father Christmas evidently can stop in Tanzania on request.
The ladies in Muheza who made them for me thought I was a bit odd! Trying to explain why I wanted 5 giant socks which weren't for wearing and which an old man would fill with presents in the middle of the night caused much hilarity!!
Merry Christmas
Stockings are up....fingers are crossed that Santa will stop....and YAY to a Christmas sipping coconuts by the Indian Ocean.
A Merry Christmas to all our wonderful friends and family....peace and goodwill to all xxx
Sunday, 23 December 2018
Ruth: Our safari
Sos it's been soooo long guys!!! So little time, so much to type! Know what I mean?!? Well, anyway, back to business... So you've probably heard quite a lot of the stuff that's been going on around here recentally from mum and dad - not the same, I know, I'm the legend round 'ere! But you know what we've been up to at least so lets crack on. Ok, so, we've just been on a three day safari and, well, IT WAS EPICCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We saw I don't know hom mny different species of animal!!!!! And all of them were super cool here's a list of thoses I can remember at the mo:
- Loads of different species of antelope
- Warthog
- flamingo
- hippo
- rhino - they're super rare and guess how many we saw? - 4 - 4 out of 40 in the park - isn't that just epic??!! And one of them was a baby too!!
- lions - we saw a male one super close up and I even got a video of it weeing on someone's car - 'll see if I can post that!!
- zebra
- giraffe
- elephants
- leopards - they're really rare we were so lucky to see them - and so close as well, they were only about 10m away from us!!!
- monkeys
- baboons - oh I've got a good story to tell about baboons!!
Thursday, 20 December 2018
Sisterly awe at the crater
Worth it....YES! All completely awed by the phenomenon that is the Ngorogoro crater...even if you do share it with numerous other safari trucks. Couldn't quite believe I wasn't in an Attenborough program. Found four of the 40 black rhinos that live in the crater and all felt suitably chagrined at mankind's destruction in the world to find out that the 60,000 strong population in 1970 plummeted to just 2000 in 2016. Thankfully they've doubled their numbers in the last 2 years, but quite a lesson in endangered species for the girls.
Amazed we've all been gripped enough to stay awake until the drives back to base as the early starts and long journeys are fairly sleep inducing. Requests for lunch are getting earlier....9.30 from B today....but thankfully the lunchboxes are generous. We ate in the car overlooking a hippo pool on the advice of our driver as a watchful black kite was waiting to swoop down to steal sandwiches ....we got out to stretch our legs but felt a little odd knowing we'd been in close vicinity of a lion only 10mins earlier!
Our last animal encounter of the day was on leaving the conservation area. Waiting for our driver, I was just about to warn the girls to close their windows when the reason for the warning appeared. R got the fright of her life turning to the window to find herself face to face with a big baboon in the process of climbing in. Her scream paused him long enough for M's reaction to kick in and for the baboon to beat a hasty retreat. A moment longer and I suspect the baboon would've been stealing the biscuits being munched on the back seat!
Highlights of today: R - lion, L- lion, B - R screaming!!!!
Off on Safari
Monday, 17 December 2018
Holidays are coming
So tomorrow we board our first bus and hopefully arrive 6 hours later in Moshi. I am full of anticipation for our first view of the great Mount Kilimanjaro. R has been doing some volcano prep work and filled me full of facts. At over 5km high it's Africa's largest mountain and amongst the world's largest volcanoes, though many 100,000s years since it was last active. At least a handful of people die each year trying to reach the summit......we shan't be amongst them on this trip. Just trying to work out the logistics of both parents going on a hike and leaving the girls at the bottom or for M & R to meander up...I'm not so fussed about reaching the top, more keen just to admire it.
My mind as usual, jumps around ever so fast.....shall fill you in on the details of the safari experience afterwards. We're trying 3 days.....wondering at what point a 5 yr old has enough of sitting in a car looking at wildlife. Been trying to persuade them all that we could do a walking safari (my horse skills sadly preclude a horse back safari) but they look askance at the thought that if perchance a wild beast wanted to eat us then the guide would likely have to intervene. No, they are not distressed at the thought that we might get eaten/hurt.... it is more that the animal might get shot. I fear my birthday hot air balloon ride over the Serengeti will have to wait for another day.
I have been polishing my domestic goddess halo with daily Christmas activities...although maybe not quite earth mother enough to have suggested the girls use all the beer bottle tops to decorate our door wreath. I am sufficiently rose tinted to skim over the moments where I'd quite like to walk out the door & keep on walking.....as on the whole this family adventure is molding us all in the positive direction little by little. So, bar the occasional star wars movie, the girls are spending hours making houses of cards, playing marbles, endless lego, plenty of crafting, reading.....we're just seriously lacking on the exercise front (and I suspect where the less angelic moments come from). Just too hot to contemplate running around outside.
M however, puts us all to shame with a morning run, on which R occasionally joins him. Never having had a problem with talking myself out of a run, I find the humidity is even less compelling. I am helping that halo with my mini yoga class stuck to the back of the door...thanks to my gorgeous sis for my personalised morning routine (check out anandapanda.yoga if you live anywhere near the South Downs).
M is also wearing his domestic god halo with pride.....I am due a reminder of gratitude to have picked such a Fundi (handyman) to help me through life! Yes I totally take it for granted that my husband can wire up defunct fans, install a gas cooker so that the house doesn't explode, fix everything and anything and be an all round engineer. We all know that every partnership share out the household chores...I unashamedly handed over the DIY mantle years ago. I may groan at his perfectionist tendencies, but what a relief to have someone who can solve most of our daily problems.
Sunday, 16 December 2018
Move over mince pies.....Mango season is here!
5 yr old around town...
At the post office - yes, she is better at me at counting out the money! |
Next trade to admire.. the timber boys...hot work loading this lot up. |
I am getting berated for missing a photo opportunity of motorbike carrying mountain of baskets....think she needs her own camera! |
Admiring sweetcorn growing in the dirty ditch......she was all for climbing down to start harvesting |
Saturday, 15 December 2018
Friday, 14 December 2018
The usual route....across the track
It is a sign of normalisation that I am not needing to write every day to share all the new experiences. The first day here I had to overcome a strong urge just to stay in the house....it was overwhelming to consider stepping out in the heat to the stares of everyone (albeit friendly) on the street. 5 weeks in, the interest in us is still evident but it is more like walking into the town back home. I can throw back the replies to greetings without stumbling on my tongue, I can ask how much things are and understand the answer (a daughter on hand still helps with the numbers). I still cause hilarity in my attempts at kiswahili in the shops but I seem to be understood and often get a lesson back. We've had a half week back in muheza with Christmas activities....bidding farewell to the Hereford team whom our children have already planned to move in with on our return to the UK. Aunty S has return from Safari....phew we have someone to play psychiatrist with again.
I have booked our safari for next week....we watched the lion king in preparation last night....B has not watched it before: though may be dissapointed in the lack of synchronized animal routines in the wild.
And I have interviewed a law graduate for the chief post of B home care/teaching....just need to negotiate a salary or else I am in danger of paying someone more than it's worth for me to go out to work for free...hmmm.
Wednesday, 12 December 2018
My secret addiction...
OK so maybe not so secret but the thing I could happily eat every day...mince pies (I have been known to make them my 5 a day) I am so hooked that yes I did bring mincemeat with us! And today's calendar activity...make mince pies for mummy to eat.
So we're back in muheza and activities to pass the hot day. B is happy to be ensconced back in her Lego. R has spent her time sorting the med students scrubs...a vast cupboard full of assorted greens & blues....now organised in her regimented piles of sizes. She has purloined the XXXL ones to make baby hats. A request by the muheza team to introduce hats for neonates.....like the knitted ones in SCBU back home. Except this bunch of babies are going to look like smurfs.
We've also been for some Xmas shopping with the Masai bead lady in town.
Tomorrow I have a tutorial to give, cervical screening to observe (want to see if they do the vinegar method here), Xmas stockings to collect (commissioned I'm African material), and a home tutor/nanny to meet. Busy, busy....but all happy.
Monday, 10 December 2018
The sea is cold?
Having been brought up to enjoy bracing swims, and carefully cultivated the 'this is lovely' dip in the sea attitude in my own offspring, I fear all is undone. B declined to join me this morning as it was 'too chilly'. Have I forever ruined us for the British coast? I admit I too felt a bit chilly, so shall take it as a good sign of acclimatisation. It has been overcast for 2 days and blissfully cool so the sand hasn't done it's usually heating up to a furnace trick. On other days, the tidal pools have got too hot to paddle in, and when the sea comes back you may as well be in a hot bath.....just need bubbles & a good book.
Cowries
Is it possible to lead a life just sitting watching the sea? Normally I find it hard just to sit and be but there's something about watching the tides come and go that makes you realise the insignificance of humans. We certainly are wreaking an ongoing force of destruction on this planet but I suspect once we are long gone the oceans will still rise and fall.
And how, I hear you thinking, is she possibly having time to sit and think philosophical thoughts. Well the 3 children are as one right now (setting up a crab residential home).....love it when they're on the same team & I am surplus to requirements...though I have probably jinxed it now. You may yet be rescued from my mind turning to the meaning of life....and that ever burning question....how do ants work out where sweet stuff is??? Can they smell...or is it a chemical signal....how do they appear within minutes of food/drink spillages?
I am also meant to be prepping for this week's tutorial...
And I almost didn't explain the title and start to my mindful day....every step towards the sea for a morning swim with B revealed another cowrie shell....like a trail of breadcrumbs ....13 in all...would that make me a millionaire in ancient Cornwall?
Sunday, 9 December 2018
How do you know you're feeling better?
A weekend in paradise is just what the doctor ordered!! That and the company of the Hereford team who graciously engaged our children in endless card games & pool play whilst their parents had some much needed downtime.
Thursday, 6 December 2018
Eugh....
Feeling more sympathetic towards my children now I'm having a taste of what they've been through. All 3 girls much brighter today, but I've not ventured far from the loo or my bed. M managed to finish early & come home to help...much to my relief. But they have been incredible....working harmoniously all morning painting the salt dough decorations we made yesterday (advent day 5 activity). Normally I'd have a small amount of anxiety as to what the state of the place would be but I haven't felt well enough to care or see. I've just lain here listening to happy voices searching for thread to string them up by, washing up, making more paper chains (advent day 2 activity) and opening today's calendar. They've even been out to the drinks stall over the road to make sure I've been drinking. Hoping the angelic peace will last now dad's home. I just need to find the metronidazole...don't want to put up with this for long...we're heading to peponi tomorrow for the weekend.
Tuesday, 4 December 2018
Bodily fluids.....
Hard to recall the other things I wanted to record now I'm in a haze of exhaustion. But yesterday gave me another satisfying outing for visits in the villages. Long drive this week up into the foothills of the Usambara mountains. We passed lots of cocoa trees, with many houses drying sheets of cocoa pods out the front. Lots of pretty 'gardens' amongst the villages and several streams for us to cross, which I imagine may be far more torrents in the wet season. My medical knowledge overstretched this time...need to swot up on a lot of topics. Plenty of things I'm sure I'll never see again in my career.....severe toxoplasmosis infection amongst others. One of the homes insisted on serving us 'lunch'....I am wondering if I am yet to pay the price of this - but as the palliative care nurse and student pharmacist tuck in I felt too rude not to. Firstly they bring a bowl & jug of water to wash our hands. Then we were treated to freshly boiled milk in elegant teacups & a large pile of chapatis. Almost too much for me sitting in a shower of my own sweat as the sun cooked us slowly through the tin roof, and the overwhelming smell of cow from the shed next door.
Out on visits |
Cocoa beans drying in the sun
Made it back just in time to see the end of prize day at school - R got a prize for her 3 legged race. Sister G ran out of prizes so the remainder will be handed out on the last day of term - which she has brought forward to tomorrow. Sadly I don't think the girls will be up to it yet tomorrow - they shall miss wishing Merry Christmas to their classmates. Thankfully we managed to squeeze in a class photo with L's class, but R's class we'll have to do after the holidays. I need to decide re B over the holidays, but she really hasn't settled at all at school so we may end up doing more of a combination home schooling after Christmas. They are now off until 9th January so we are busy planning safaris etc
Prize giving |
L's class |
R's teacher Sister I & her Xmas decorations |