Zanzibar – an name that evokes pictures of white sands,
turquoise oceans, hints of spices and a forgotten world of Arabic mystery. For
months now it has been the beacon to guide us through the tougher times, and
yet suddenly here we are at the end of our week. Either it will have given us
the energy to embrace our last week in Muheza or it may prove to be our
undoing, to have switched into a different side of Africa so close to our
departure. Even here with the lure of clear waters and enticing rock pools the
girls are chafing to return home to the UK.
What have our Zanzibar highlights been? Well obviously Uncle
R….who also makes in to the top 5 highlights of Africa for all the girls, up
there with lion viewing! Scuba diving…yes even B got a go in the swimming pool,
having sat patiently through her parents Open Water PADI refresher. All the
girls took to it like dolphins to water. The dive instructors looked on with
awe as our 5 year old spent her time duck diving to the bottom of the deep end
to inspect her scuba sisters. R is old enough to take her newly learnt skills
out to sea, so the following day she & I went for a girls diving trip out
to the nearest coral atoll. So many fish, and a joy to find ourselves gently
being accompanied by dolphins whilst 12m below the surface. Lucky girl got
another 2 dives the following day accompanying M. The other two enjoyed having
the run of our 5 star hotel entirely to ourselves. Each of the 4 swimming pools
duly found themselves with little collections of playmobil people enjoying
themselves on the side.
Another favourite was the lagoon at the south of the island, having moved half way through the week to try a different part of Zanzibar. We could've floated for hours on the outgoing tide along the edge of the lagoon - stuff of holiday brochures.
Having switched into
holiday mode, I find myself forgetting that we have one more week to finish off
the school work, say our farewells, celebrate a birthday, arrange the school
parties and our hospital leaving do. We have the fortunate distraction as well
this coming week of a visiting ‘baby’ who will be bringing her surgeon &
anaesthetist parents to visit for 10 days. A friend of M’s who is testing out
African plans of her own with a mini stint, to see how life can work with
children here.
We have taken pleasure
here on being able to respond to the locals in Kiswahili. It changes the
dynamics slightly from being another rich white tourist. They are all as
friendly as the other Tanzanians we have met, even those touting for trade are
very good natured on polite rebuffal. The sales pressures of Moshi are not
apparent here. Though what is noticeable are the greetings we get from
children; instead of cries of wazungu or polite shikamoos we get requests for
sweets/books/pencils, even to the extent of whatever bag I am carrying being
peered into. I suspect well intentioned tourists have changed the dynamics to
expectation of gifts.
Our return flight to the mainland a suitable finish heading back into the setting sun with our impossibly glamorous lady pilot and co-pilot. A reminder in this male dominated culture that women can do it too!
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